Wool takes centre stage at the 95th IWTO Congress

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Estimated reading time: 4 minutes

The 95th International Wool Textile Organisation (IWTO) Congress, held in Dalang, China, in June, brought together 238 delegates from across the global wool supply chain. “Wool is our work and wool is our passion,” said IWTO president Klaus Steger as he opened the congress. “It is impressive to be here in Dalang, a living demonstration of what this industry can achieve.”

In his keynote address, Sun Ruizhe, chairperson of the China National Textile and Apparel Council (CNTAC), explained the role of the congress within the broader context of global economic pressures and technological change. China’s textile and apparel industry processes over 60 million tonnes of fibre annually and accounts for more than half of global garment production. He described the sector as one that connects pastures and fashion runways, integrates technology with cultural creativity, and promotes international cooperation.

The congress included a diverse South African delegation comprising, among others, Cape Wools SA CEO Deon Saayman, Standard Wool managing director Paul Lynch, National Wool Growers’ Association (NWGA) general manager Dan Kriek, Monica Ebert of Cape Wools SA, and BKB’s executive manager of wool and mohair, Isak Staats.

From the left are Jiang Chen of the Nanjing Wool Market, Deon Saayman, Cape Wools SA CEO, Dr George de Kock, Cape Wools SA board chairperson, and Monica Ebert of Cape Wools SA.

Wool’s place in the global market

Ebert, media and marketing consultant with Cape Wools SA, explored how future demand for wool can be created by aligning the fibre with wellness trends and increasing its relevance to modern consumers. She highlighted the global wellness economy as one of wool’s greatest growth opportunities. Valued at around US$6,8 trillion, the wellness market has evolved far beyond fitness and beauty, with consumers increasingly making purchasing decisions based on comfort, health, sleep quality, recovery, and well-being.

Wool, she said, is well positioned to benefit from this shift because the qualities consumers seek, such as thermal regulation, breathability, skin comfort, and natural performance, are inherent in wool. The challenge is not proving that wool belongs in the wellness conversation but communicating these benefits in ways that resonate with today’s consumers. Ebert also identified China as one of the world’s most important wellness markets, characterised by high consumer engagement and strong growth in healthy ageing.

Building tomorrow’s market share

Staats presented the latest findings from the IWTO Market Information Report, providing an overview of current wool market conditions. Last year brought a welcome recovery in wool prices, with solid gains across Merino and crossbred wool. However, he cautioned that the recovery has been driven primarily by supply tightening rather than by stronger consumer demand. Production continues to decline as sheep numbers fall and producers allocate resources to more profitable enterprises.

The report also highlighted longer-term structural trends. The wool produced is becoming finer, while natural fibre production remains stagnant as synthetic fibres dominate global growth. This reinforces the idea that wool cannot compete on volume, but must instead compete on value by emphasising quality, sustainability, provenance, and traceability.

Staats also discussed some encouraging developments in Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) certification, where premiums have begun recovering after several difficult years, alongside major advances in digital traceability systems that provide brands and consumers with greater confidence in wool’s origin and credentials.

Looking ahead, he cautioned that the market remains highly uncertain. Supply constraints continue to support prices, but geopolitical tensions, energy costs, and ongoing trade uncertainty present significant risks to global demand over the next two years.

Looking forward to 2027

The IWTO will host its next annual congress in Stellenbosch from 20 to 22 April 2027, with Cape Wools SA as the host. The Dalang congress concluded with a video promoting the South African leg of the event. Watch the video here:

– Carin Venter, Plaas Media

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